May 2008 Issue

Change Clothes and Go
The top 5 fashion accessories that defined American presidential candidates.

5.) Kefauver charms New Hampshire with style? – 1952 Democratic Primaries
In 1952, Tennessee Senator Estes Kefauver entered the race for the presidency as a long shot. A staunch liberal in traditionally conservative Tennessee and known for being tough on organized crime, Kefauver entered into the Democratic presidential primaries against sitting President Harry Truman. Donning his trademark coonskin hat similar to those worn by Tennessee legend Davy Crockett and traveling through snowy New Hampshire via dogsled, the Tennessean shocked the nation when he defeated Truman in that state’s primary (Truman would soon after declare that he would not seek a second term.) Ironically in an era in which primary victories were all but irrelevant, Sen. Kefauver won 12 out of 15 primary contests in that year only to lose the nomination at the Democratic National Convention to Sen. Adlai Stevenson.

4.) Reagan proves it’s hip to be “square” – 1980 Presidential Election
After threatening the GOP power structure by challenging sitting President Gerald Ford for the Republican nomination in 1976, Ronald Reagan was asked to wait his turn. He originally burst onto the political scene in 1964 giving a rousing speech during that year’s Republican National Convention. Later on in the decade he would win the governorship of California. Known for his conservative ideals, the former actor brought Hollywood style to the political arena. By 1980, Reagan reintroduced American men to an old friend not scene since the days of President Lyndon Johnson: the pocket square. Known to bring attention to an otherwise dull tie or adding that missing piece to a full suit, Reagan’s classic Hollywood era style that resembled that of Clark Gable, Cary Grant, and Humphrey Bogart created a new buzz during the beginning of the MTV age of the 1980’s. Today pocket squares are becoming regular mainstays in the boardroom and on the runways.

3.) The Rough Rider’s pince-nez – 1904, 1912 Presidential Elections
Police commissioner, environmentalist, hunter, author, scholar, peacemaker, governor, vice-president, and president; these occupations are not of several resumes, but one. Sworn into office following the death of President William McKinley in 1901, Theodore Roosevelt provided a new style and a new reputation for the United States as a global superpower. Educated at Harvard, hardened by the Spanish American War, and a well known trustbuster, Roosevelt did it all in style. The first president to regularly wear the modern necktie, TR could regularly be seen sporting one of his many tailored suits and his pince-nez, a style of eye glasses from the 15th century. Unique in their look as they do not have earpieces, they hit a revival in the U.S. in the 1830’s and once again from the late 1880’s and finally settling in the 1930’s. TR’s cousin Franklin Roosevelt last popularly wore them in the political realm during his presidency from 1933 until 1945. The glasses gave both Roosevelts the image of vitality and energy. Most recently, the pince-nez, which means, “pinch nose” in French, made a short reappearance during the Matrix films as they were worn by Laurence Fishburne’s character Morpheus.

2.) FDR gets smoke in your eyes – 1932, 1936, 1940, 1944 Presidential Elections
U.S. citizens needed strength and confidence more than anything else after the stock market crash of 1929. By 1932, the Great Depression was in full effect and President Herbert Hoover was up for re-election. His opposition was Franklin Roosevelt, governor of New York. After four years of presiding over Depression-era America, President Hoover had become tired and waned and so was his campaign. Roosevelt remained confident and gave the appearance of strength with his head constantly held high and his cigarette holder even higher. Usually associated with older movie actresses like Joan Crawford later on, FDR transformed the cigarette holder look into one of masculine confidence and defiance. Both attributes would be needed to win 3 more elections, the Great Depression, and World War II.

1.) Honest Abe: That Cat in the Hat – 1860, 1864 Presidential Elections
Some consider Abraham Lincoln the president of all presidents aside from George Washington. Lincoln was a commanding figure whose face was said to ‘sparkle’ whenever he was in a jovial mood. His presence was only exaggerated by sporting a stovepipe hat, worn by many 19th century presidents dating back to Andrew Jackson. The tallest American President at 6’4,” Lincoln stood nearly 6’7” with his stove-pipe, a height advantage that he thoroughly enjoyed as he peered and dominated over his political rivals in the Illinois State Senate, the House of Representatives, and The White House. Wearing the stovepipe at his presidential inauguration would begin a tradition that lasted off and on until President John F. Kennedy’s 1961 inaugural. Nonetheless, Lincoln is remembered for his headgear as much as he is for the Emancipation Proclamation and his strong leadership during the Civil War. Rarely in today’s pop cultural references is Lincoln depicted without his memorable hat.

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